Faded colour, emptying joints, oil spots, weeds moving in — none of it means the surface is done. A deep clean, fresh polymeric sand, and the right sealer bring interlocking back and lock water out of the base. It's the cheapest thing you will ever do for a five-figure surface.
Here's the honest version of the sealing pitch: the gloss is the least important thing we apply. An interlocking surface fails from the joints down — polymeric sand washes out, water slips between the stones, and Ontario's freeze-thaw cycles quietly pump the bedding out from under the field. By the time a driveway looks tired, the real damage is being set up below it. A proper maintenance visit refills and locks every joint first; the sealer then holds that sand in, keeps stains on the surface instead of in the stone, and stops UV from washing the colour out.
That's why we quote cleaning, re-sanding, and sealing as one visit rather than selling sealer by the pail. A typical 700 sq ft driveway runs $1,500–$3,000 for the complete service every 4–6 years — full pricing lives in our sealing cost guide. Against the $25–$55 per square foot it costs to re-lay a failed surface, it's the best-value work order in hardscaping, and it's the service that decides whether your interlocking sees its 30th birthday.
We seal and maintain surfaces we installed and surfaces we've never seen before, across Mississauga and the GTA. If what you're seeing is movement rather than wear — a dip, a heaved border, a spreading edge — that's a base problem, and it needs our interlocking repair crew before any sealer goes down. Not sure which you need? Our maintenance guide walks through the difference, or send us a photo and we'll tell you straight.
UV and weather slowly wash the pigment off the paver face — so slowly you don't notice until you see an old photo. A deep clean plus the right sealer brings the depth back and holds it, instead of letting another five summers take more.
Weeds don't grow up from under a proper base — they seed into joints where the sand has dropped. Empty joints also hand water a direct route to the bedding. A full polymeric re-sand closes both doors in one visit.
Unsealed concrete pavers drink whatever lands on them — oil, rust, tannins from leaves. Winter salt then eats at the surface itself. Stain treatment gets out what's there; the sealer keeps the next spill sitting on top where it wipes away.
Sealer is the visible part. The value is in what the full visit — clean, re-sand, seal — does for the decade ahead.
The quiet one that matters most. Full, locked polymeric joints are the surface's waterproofing — they're what keep rain and snowmelt from reaching the bedding layer that freeze-thaw destroys. Every expensive interlocking repair starts with water getting past empty joints.
UV bleaches unsealed pavers a little every summer. A quality sealer is sunscreen for the surface — it holds the pigment you paid for, and a wet-look product deepens it the way rain does. The difference between a sealed and unsealed driveway at year ten is visible from the street.
Unsealed concrete pavers are porous — oil from a parked car or rust from patio furniture goes in and stays. Sealed, the same spill sits on the surface long enough to clean up. On a driveway, this is the difference between a paper-towel moment and a permanent spot in front of the garage.
De-icing salt attacks the paver surface itself — spalling and flaking the face over the winters. A sealer adds a sacrificial layer between the salt and the stone. We'd still rather you use sand for traction, but sealed pavers forgive the salt that reaches them anyway.
Both move into the same vacancy: joints where the sand has washed out. Hardened polymeric sand leaves weeds nowhere to root and ants nothing to excavate. One re-sand typically ends a weed problem that years of pulling and spraying only managed.
A $1,500–$3,000 visit every 4–6 years protects a surface that costs $25–$55 per square foot to re-lay once it fails. Across a 700 sq ft driveway, that's a four-figure habit guarding a five-figure asset — the cheapest insurance in hardscaping, and the only kind that also makes the thing look new.
Six services, one crew, usually one dry day. Most surfaces need the first three; the rest get added only when your surface actually calls for them.
01, Clean
The visit starts with hot pressure washing at a pressure and fan angle that lift embedded grime, algae, and old joint residue without scarring the paver face or blasting out the bedding beneath. Done wrong, a pressure washer is how DIY maintenance creates the problem it was trying to prevent — which is exactly why the cheap flyer quote skips to the sealer.
02, Joints
Every joint refilled, compacted so the sand consolidates to the bottom, swept clean, and activated with a controlled watering so it hardens into a flexible seal. This is the structural heart of the visit: locked joints keep the field tight and keep water away from the base. If you buy only one line on the quote, buy this one.
03, Sealer
Wet-look or matte, film-forming or penetrating — the right product depends on your paver, its age, and the finish you want, so we bring sample boards rather than opinions. Application runs $0.80–$1.20 per square foot and happens only in a dry-weather window, because the cure is where cheap sealing jobs go wrong.
04, Stains
Oil, rust, leaf tannins, and the white mineral bloom of efflorescence each need their own chemistry — one all-purpose wash doesn't touch them. We treat what's actually on your surface before anything gets locked under a sealer, because a sealed-in stain is a permanent one.
05, Touch-Ups
A wobbly border stone, a chipped paver worth swapping, an edge spike that's lifted — minor items get handled within the visit instead of becoming a second service call. Anything structural — settlement, heaving, a spreading field — is a base problem, and it goes to our interlocking repair crew before sealing makes sense.
06, New Installs
New pavers need 60–90 days to release efflorescence before their first seal — sealing earlier traps the bloom under the film as a permanent haze. If we built your surface, we schedule the first seal at the right moment; if someone else did, we'll check it's ready before we apply anything.
Four scopes cover nearly every surface we're called to. A look at your joints and your last service date settles which one you're in — and the quote is fixed before work starts.
The complete package — deep clean, stain treatment, full polymeric re-sand, and sealing in your choice of finish. The right call every 4–6 years for any surface you want to keep at full colour and full protection, and the service that prevents the expensive repairs.
A new surface's first sealer coat, applied 60–90 days after installation once the pavers have finished releasing efflorescence. Minimal prep — the surface is new — so you're paying for the application itself and locking in the day-one look before the first winter gets a vote.
The full clean and complete polymeric re-sand, without the sealer. Everything structural about the visit — locked joints, water kept out of the base, weeds evicted — at a lower price, keeping the natural matte look. Sealing can always be added in a later season.
For the driveway that hasn't been touched in a decade: heavy cleaning, stain and efflorescence treatment, full re-sand, and sealing — the whole service at $2–$4.30 per square foot depending on condition. If we find structural movement during prep, we tell you before a drop of sealer goes down.
We walk the surface and read its condition: how empty the joints are, what the stains are, whether a previous sealer is failing, and — critically — whether anything structural is moving. If a section needs repair rather than sealer, we say so before quoting. And if your surface genuinely doesn't need the service yet, we'll tell you that too; sealing a healthy two-year-old seal job helps nobody but the invoice.
Hot pressure washing at the right pressure and fan angle lifts embedded grime without scarring the paver face or blasting out the bedding. Oil, rust, and organic stains get treated with the chemistry each one actually needs, and efflorescence is cleaned off properly — because anything still on the surface when the sealer goes down is on the surface permanently.
The surface dries fully, then every joint is refilled with polymeric sand, compacted so the sand consolidates to the bottom of the joint, swept, and activated with a controlled watering. This is the structural point of the whole visit — full, hardened joints lock the field tight and keep water away from the base that freeze-thaw attacks.
The sealer matched to your paver and finish choice goes on in the dry-weather window the cure requires — dry surface, dry forecast, overnight temperatures above freezing. A wet surface or the wrong product is how driveways turn hazy white, so we move the date rather than force the forecast. Your schedule bends for weather exactly once; a botched seal costs a stripping job.
Foot traffic can return in 24 hours; vehicles stay off for 48–72 hours, with sharp turns avoided until the sealer fully cures — typically 3–5 days depending on temperature and humidity. We walk the finished surface with you and leave a simple between-visits routine: sweep, rinse, skip the salt where you can, and call us if the joint sand ever drops noticeably.
Sealing attracts a lot of one-truck operations because the barrier to entry is a pressure washer and a pail. But knowing how a surface is built is how you maintain one without hurting it — what pressure the joints can take, which sealer a tumbled paver wants versus a smooth one, when a stain is cosmetic and when it's a symptom. Fifteen years of building interlocking across the GTA means we service these surfaces with the same judgment we install them with.
We build these surfaces for a living, so we know exactly what a maintenance visit should and shouldn't do to one. Nobody on our crew will pressure-blast your bedding sand out from under the field.
Polymeric sand and sealer both cure or fail on the forecast. We schedule around dry windows and we'll move your date rather than compromise the cure — and we call you when we do.
Film-forming, penetrating, wet-look, matte — the right sealer depends on your paver and its age. We bring sample boards so you choose from what it will actually look like, not from adjectives.
We don't subcontract. The people who assess your surface are the people who clean, sand, and seal it — which is why the assessment and the work actually match.
If your surface needs repair before sealer, or doesn't need sealing yet at all, that's what the quote says. We'd rather earn the visit in two years than seal over a problem this year.
Fifteen Ontario winters teach you what salt, UV, and freeze-thaw do to a paver surface — and exactly what a maintenance visit has to accomplish so the surface shrugs them off.
Ten minutes of reading that will make you better at buying this service than most people selling it.
If you remember one thing from this page: the polymeric sand matters more than the sealer. Full, hardened joints are what keep water out of the base — and water in the base is the mechanism behind nearly every sunken driveway in the GTA. A glossy surface over empty joints is a detailed car with no oil in the engine. When you compare quotes, ask each contractor what their re-sand process is; if the answer is a bag of play sand swept in dry, keep shopping.
Fresh concrete pavers spend their first weeks releasing efflorescence — a white mineral salt that migrates to the surface as the concrete cures. Sealed too early, that bloom gets trapped under the film permanently. The rule is simple: wait 60–90 days and a few good rains after installation, confirm the surface is running clean, then seal. Any installer who offers to seal your brand-new driveway on handover day is optimizing for their schedule, not your surface.
Wet-look sealers deepen colour dramatically and give the most stain protection, but they show wear patterns as they age and demand a more careful application. Matte penetrating sealers protect invisibly and are far more forgiving, but they don't transform the look. Neither is the 'right' answer — it's your house. What matters is choosing from samples on your actual paver, in daylight, rather than from a product name.
The hazy white driveway is the signature failure of cheap sealing: moisture or efflorescence trapped under a film-forming sealer applied to a surface that wasn't ready. The causes are always the same — sealed too soon after rain, too soon after installation, or with a non-breathable product on the wrong paver. The prevention costs nothing: a dry surface, a dry forecast, and the right product. The cure, by contrast, can mean chemically stripping the whole surface.
Rock salt is hard on concrete pavers — it attacks the surface and leaves spalling and flaking behind over the years. Sand gives traction with zero chemistry and is what we recommend on any interlocking surface. Realistically, some salt arrives anyway — tracked off the road, dripping off the car — and that's a real part of why driveways benefit from sealing more than any other surface: the sealer takes the hit so the paver face doesn't.
A previous sealer still beading water doesn't need another coat — over-sealing builds a cloudy film. A surface with active settlement needs repair first; sealer locks in a problem, it doesn't fix one. And late-October sealing in Ontario is a gamble on the cure that the calendar usually wins. Part of our job is telling you which of these applies, and sealing anyway is the one thing we won't do.
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The sealer application itself runs $0.80–$1.20 per square foot. Most homeowners book the full maintenance visit — deep clean, complete polymeric re-sand, and sealing — which runs $1,500–$3,000 for a typical 700 sq ft driveway, or $2–$4.30 per square foot all-in. The exact number depends on the surface's condition: a well-kept patio needs less prep than a driveway that hasn't been touched in a decade. We quote a fixed, itemized price after seeing the surface.
The full clean, re-sand, and seal cycle is every 4–6 years for most GTA surfaces. Driveways sit at the short end of that range — vehicle traffic, oil, and road salt work the surface harder than a backyard patio ever will. Between visits, the maintenance is simple: sweep, rinse, and top up joint sand anywhere it drops noticeably below the paver edge.
No — and we'll tell you that to your face. An unsealed surface with healthy joints functions perfectly well. What sealing buys you is colour retention, locked-in joint sand, stain resistance, and protection from de-icing salts. What it doesn't do is fix a structural problem — a sunken area needs repair, not sealer. The part of the visit that is genuinely non-negotiable is the joint sand: full joints are what keep water out of the base, and water in the base is how interlocking actually fails.
Wait 60–90 days after installation. New concrete pavers release efflorescence — a white mineral salt — as they cure, and sealing too early traps it under the sealer as a permanent haze. The waiting period lets the surface breathe and weather, and lets a few rains carry the efflorescence off. At that point a first seal costs $0.80–$1.20 per square foot and goes on clean.
Wet-look (film-forming) sealers sit on the surface and deepen the colour the way rain does — dramatic on tumbled and darker pavers, and the most protective against stains. Matte (penetrating) sealers soak in and protect without changing the appearance, keeping the natural stone-dry look. Wet-look needs more careful application and reapplication; matte is more forgiving. Neither is wrong — it's an appearance decision, and we bring sample boards so you can see both on your actual paver before choosing.
That's almost always moisture or efflorescence trapped under a film-forming sealer — the surface was sealed too soon after rain, too soon after installation, or with the wrong product for the paver. It's the most common DIY and low-bid sealing failure we're called to fix. Depending on severity, the fix ranges from letting a breathable sealer release the haze to chemically stripping and resealing. Prevention is cheap: a dry surface, a dry forecast, and a sealer matched to the paver.
Late spring through early fall. Polymeric sand and sealer both need a dry surface, a dry 24–48 hour window afterwards, and overnight temperatures reliably above freezing to cure properly. We schedule around the forecast — and we'll move your date rather than seal into weather that compromises the cure, because a rushed cure is how hazing and early wear happen.
Absolutely. A deep clean and full polymeric re-sand is a complete, legitimate service on its own — it restores the joints that keep water out of the base and the surface locked tight, which is the structural heart of the visit. Plenty of homeowners prefer the natural matte look of unsealed pavers. We'll quote the clean and re-sand on its own, and you can add sealing in a later season if you change your mind.
We clean, re-sand, and seal interlocking surfaces across every major community in the Greater Toronto Area. Each location page covers the local conditions, timing, and maintenance considerations specific to that area. Based in Mississauga? Start with our complete interlocking Mississauga hub — every service, price range, and local answer in one place. In Oakville? The interlocking Oakville hub does the same for the lakeshore west.
Tell us about your project. We'll help you plan the perfect patio, walkway, or retaining wall, and give you a clear, honest quote.
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